Tozeur and the Sahara

The landscape south of Tunisia is characterised by arid mountains, rippling Saharan sand seas, and great expanses of brilliant white salt pans (chotts). Where water bubbles to the surface, bright green oases of date palms form and are almost mirage-like in their fascination amidst the desolation.

Tozeur is positioned on the edge of the Sahara, the largest oasis in Tunisia, with over 200,000 date palms – many of the highly prized Delgat Nour variety. Under Arab rule, Tozeur became wealthy from the trans-Saharan caravan trade. The old quarter of the town, known as the Ouled Hadef, reflects that wealth. Its buildings are constructed using yellowish bricks arranged in geometrical patterns and are full of history.

The Mountain Oases of Chebika, Mides and Tamerza offer some of the most dramatic scenery in southern Tunisia, with date palms surviving in rocky clefts and small streams and waterfalls, creating an Eden-like paradise amongst the arid mountains. The original villages close to each oasis were abandoned in the 1960s for various reasons (flooding, breeze-block replacements) and have crumbled into atmospheric stone-and-earth ruins. Several good hikes can be enjoyed in the area.

Lézard Rouge is a tourist train running between Metlaoui and Seldja through a series of dramatic gorges. The carriages were built in the 19th century and were originally owned by the Bey of Tunis. The Bey’s private carriage offers travel in some style, but the rest of the train is rather ordinary. Seats are allocated on a first-come, first-served basis.

Ksar Ghilane gives visitors the best opportunity to experience the Sahara in Tunisia. This small and attractive oasis is located right on the edge of the great sand sea and is a world away from the crowds of Douz. A sunset camel ride over the dunes of the Grand Erg Oriental to the nearby Roman fort, combined with spending a night under canvas (in an air-conditioned tent!), offers a quintessential Saharan experience.