Bhuj

Bhuj is one of Gujarat’s hidden gems with a rich history and was the capital of the former princely state of Kutch for nearly 400 years. Today, this small town is a treasure trove for arts, handicrafts, and textiles enthusiasts and is renowned for offering immersive experiences with local artisans. A stroll through Bhuj will enable you to discover the crumbling Parag Mahal, a fine example of Italian Gothic-style architecture with Corinthian pillars and intricate carvings. The imposing palace showcases exquisite craftsmanship, intricate carvings on walls, and delicate jaali work on jharokhas. Inside, remnants of the royal lifestyle are evident – walls adorned with trophies featuring lions, deer, bears, and even a hippo, alongside yellowing photographs of young men in sports attire. The once-glorious palace, now in disrepair, echoes a haunting sense of lost grandeur, with broken chandeliers and sculptures scattered in the Durbar Hall. Next door, the Aina Mahal Palace or ‘Hall of Mirrors’ was added to the complex in the 18th century and is more aesthetically pleasing than the two. Adorned with stained white marble, mottled mirrors, lunar clocks, exquisite artefacts, and faded daguerreotypes, this palace once surpassed the opulence of Oriental and European palace rooms from its era.

The virtually forgotten Chattardi ruins (royal cenotaphs) lie a short distance from the palaces and are dedicated to the Jadeja Rajput rulers of Kutch. Built in the 18th century, the umbrella-shaped domes showcase a blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture, and each cenotaph is adorned with red sandstone carvings. While the scars of the 2001 earthquake are still evident, restoration efforts are ongoing. If the site is open, it is best visited just before sunset.

Other attractions include the Kutch Museum, the oldest in the region and the Ramakund Stepwell, featuring miniature idols from the Ramayana. Despite neglect and a sense of lost grandeur in palaces and temples, Bhuj’s legacy for specialised craftsmanship thrives. Visitors can witness Bhuj’s rich cultural heritage in the many villages around the area. Historically, each village was renowned for distinct handicrafts: from woodcarving in one village, embroidery in another, pottery, jewellery, tie-and-dye and ceramics in the neighbouring villages. A walk around these villages will reveal that time-honoured techniques are still practised and handed down through generations within local artisan families. Amongst the various villages, Bhujodi village is renowned for exceptional weaving techniques (the ‘extra weft’ technique) and exquisite textiles, while in the village of Nirona nearby, the ‘Rogan art’ that originated in Persia is practised by a handful of dedicated families.